We were now about to start on our next adventure, but sadly I spotted some oil on the grass where Troopy had parked the day before and Stephen soon established that there was a leak at the right rear back axle. This was not good news. We really could not go into Khaudum, which was probably the wildest place to go to on our trip with such a leak. Worst of all, we discovered that Namibia had a two day long public holiday and that we would not come right in Rundu until Friday! I decided to Google and Zaib Motors in Shakawe was the closest possibility for help. I phoned Zaib and sure enough, he had a bearing kit for Troopy. We decided that we should go back into Botswana and go to Zaib Motors. There was no public holiday in Botswana! Paul and Petra would spend the day as planned going to Popa Falls and then find a campsite along the river closer to Divundu. On the drive back through Mahango we saw elephant, zebra and roan antelope. Unfortunately we had no time to enjoy the "morning show"
It was strange to be back at the Mohembo border. The officials were as friendly as ever and some remembered us from two days earlier. Our names were still on the same page in the vehicle register and we realized just how quiet that border is. Sadly we had to once again pay the road tax for Botswana, since we had only requested a one way entry (not thinking we would have to come back!). In Shakawe, Zaib was waiting for us. His setup is very basic. He has a very busy spare parts shop and most of the mechanical work happens outside. A huge Marula tree provided shade, but also attracted the local goats and cows that occasional dropped in for a snack. I was twice bombarded by marulas and the fruit proved to be excellent projectiles. I could not believe how painful it was to be hit by a falling marula! Two fellows got going taking off the rear wheel and soon hit a stumbling block when they could not get the half shaft off the hub. The cone washers would not let go. UTube was consulted and eventually Stephen took over and managed to get the hub off. The bearings came out and, as the one guy said, they were fooked! Stephen watched with hesitation as the very willing “bush mechanics” proceeded to install the new bearings. It was a “made in China” kit so we would have to check them after about 25 000 km or so. He really would have rather done it himself. I went off to explore the new shopping center with its Choppies, Ackermans, Pep Stores and several other new little shops. As I had expected, the vegetables and fruit at Choppies were not great. We had done well rather going to Sefelana Store two days earlier. I decided to use the 100 Pula I had kept behind “for later” and bought some bread and other goodies. When I got back, I discovered that the repair job had hit a new snag. The bearing kit did not contain the outer seal (this is normal and this seal must be bought as an extra). It was now lunch time and we would have to wait until Zaib’s ladies were back to open the spares shop. Stephen and I decided to go walkabout and we went into the huge Fours warehouse behind Zaib’s. To our astonishment this massive store was stocked to the brim with food supplies and many other useful things like electrical appliances, oil, jerry cans etc., a pharmacy and a bottle store. They obviously supplied bulk to the market, but also had plenty of individual products and even excellent fresh vegetables and fruit. The prices were generally also very good. We spent some more of the 100 Pula and then went back to Zaib’s. Troopy now had the brakes fitted, but was still looking very sad with the half shaft and wheel lying on the ground and the guys looking despondent. They could not find the right seal amongst the huge supply of seals in the spares shop. I also became rather despondent, imagining sleeping in Troopy in Zaib’s yard in the middle of Shakawe with marulas bombarding us and with goats and cows popping in. We would probably also have been a village attraction!!
I decided to walk to the old center where there were supposed to be two more spare parts shops. It was very hot and the sand was soft alongside the road and it was a good two kilometers away. As I started walking, I asked a very pleasant gentleman if there wasn’t a shortcut and he offered to show me the short way. He was on his way to the Wildlife office to report that elephants had destroyed his sorghum field! His directions took me through a very rural village right in the center of Shakawe. There were still traditional mud huts and an old-fashioned hand water pump. People were going about their business, with one lady sewing away on her Singer hand machine, a granny sweeping the yard with a grass broom, ladies pumping water and some children having fun in the dust. Everyone was friendly and showed me the way to the old center of town. Everything was neat and I could not help but think that this would have been a squatter camp dotted with corrugated shacks in South Africa. I did find both spares shops, but they could not help either. I did not feel like walking back in the heat and was not sure whether I would find my way back along the winding path I had came along, so I started looking out for a lift. A truck with empty Jojo water tanks slowly came past. I signalled that I wanted a ride and the lady driver was quite happy to help. The fellow sitting next to her in front wanted me to take his place and he said that he would jump on to the back, but I declined and offered to get on myself. This proved to be quite a feat because the truck was high, but I managed! The lady drove very carefully taking care that the empty water containers would not roll around too much and she actually drove right into Zaib’s yard to drop me off. Sadly Stephen did not see me arrive, since he was too busy trying to make a plan to sort out the seal. He would have been very surprised to see me jump off the truck!
There had been no progress and we were getting rather desperate. The border would close at 18h00 and it was getting late. Zaib was phoning all his contacts around Botswana, but no luck. Then the one “mechanic” came up with the idea of cutting down a seal that had the right diameter and using it to push up against the part of our broken seal that still existed. Stephen looked on with trepidation, but we had to take this chance or stay stuck in Shakawe. In no time the axle was back on and Troopy looked whole again. We then hit one more snag. The differential plug had stripped when they tried to check the oil level and we would now not be able to check if the level had gone down! (Stephen had already had trouble getting it loose previously). Stephen fortunately had the foresight to buy a new one from the spares shop to take along. We went for a test drive and then made a dash for the border. The total cost for the bearings, the seal and the labour was 650 Pula, which was very reasonable considering that they had worked on the job for several hours. It would have cost a whole lot more at Toyota!! We got to the border shortly before 18h00 and had to go through the normal procedures. The officials were busy closing as we arrived. On the Namibian side only 9 vehicles had passed through the border since our last entry two days earlier! Unfortunately we had to once again pay for the cursed road tax! As we drove through Mahango on the main transit road, we had a great surprise. Two wild dogs appeared and stayed on the road long enough for me to take some good photographs. In fact, Stephen spoke gently to the one dog and it looked as if it was listening attentively. This was a special moment. We saw a lot more game as we slowly drove on.
Once out of the reserve, we sped up a little, but the road surface was rather poor until the tar. I could not believe my eyes as we drove through Divundu. The old “Bushman” grocery store was gone and in its place was a huge Metro Cash and Carry. The old Shell garage had become a new complex together with a garage shop and all sorts of other little shops. They were also building another fuel station next door! We filled up at the Shell garage and I popped into the shop, because Ralph from Mahango had told me to look out for meat there. They did have wors and pork chops and I gratefully bought some. I also asked a petrol attendant if there was someone who could weld and if they would work on a public holiday. He answered that they do not keep to public holidays in Divundu – work is work – and they have at least two people there that could do a good welding job! This was good to hear.
We had received a Whatsapp from Petra that they could not get a campsite at the Riverdance Lodge as planned, but were at Mobola next door. Fortunately this was not too far from Divundu. We found the turnoff, but then misinterpreted the signage in the dark and landed up in a little dead end overgrown track. Stephen had to turn around and fortunately I got out to direct him, because the whole edge of the road was lined with thorny hedges to keep animals in. Two locals came out to assist. We eventually found the way to Mobola and saw Ssyrill’s familiar orange rear light in the dark. They had found a lovely campsite at the edge of the riverbank and had a fire waiting for us. We were very relieved and quickly got supper going. They had had a successful day, enjoying Popa Falls and exploring the beautiful Mobola campsite. Although there were solar showers the water was hot and it was bearable despite being open air. We went to bed wondering what our next step would be since we could not risk going into Khaudum with a “make a plan” seal and no way to check, or fill, the differential.

Geschreven door Leartravels