It was cold when we woke, but we had got the orientation right again and the sun was soon on the back of the car. The campsite opsigter, Willem, arrived and chatted to Marianne who got his cellphone number. This would prove to be useful in the future. Our route today was to the Hel se Pas and then via the Koof road back towards Nieuwoudtville. We turned off the Loeriesfontein road onto the Grasberg road, a good gravel road just before the Nieuwoudville waterfall. First stop was the Willemsrivier farm. This very historical complex, originally a sheep farm dating from 1745, and had a considerable number of houses which indicated that it must have been a significant community in the past. We walked to the cemetery and were surprised to find that a number of graves were O'Reillys. Irish 1820 settlers were located in Clanwilliam and these must have been some of those who did not move to the Eastern Cape. There was also the Hulpkerk, built before the grand church at Nieuwoudtville. Marianne managed to talk to the owner who was very friendly. The restored cottages are now self-catering accommodation and they were fully booked. The place had a lovely feel to it and it might be a good accommodation spot for a future flower tour. We walked across to the Hulpkerk which was now used as a shed. The original corrugated roof was still protecting the old structure from 1885. There were also a lot of flowers. We now continued on to Grasberg, another historical farm complex and also offering accommodation. Here the the gates were open and the farmer had signs indicating flower routes. There seemed to be no charge and we turned in to find a place for coffee, passing some ruined stone buildings. After crossing the river we found a perfect place just above quite a wide stream. The farmer drove past while we were there with nothing but a friendly wave. This was a delightful spot and since there was water in the river, we could even wash our plunger cups! Our next stop was Ou Plaas or Bokkefontein. This was deserted, having been abandoned in 1993. It was a remarkable collection of buildings, some in ruins and some that looked as though the occupants had just left. It was quite elevated and had splendid views to the east. These old farms were all located on a Trekpad (route along which animals were moved) and where a number of families grouped together, for protection from Bushmen attacks. We spent some time looking around and then set off for the pass. We got ourselves a bit lost and eventually had to put co-ordinates into the GPS. This took us back almost to Ou Plaas, but precisely knowing our location we were then easily able to follow the directions in our Nieuwoudtville brochure. Sure enough we got to the locked gate at the last farm on Grasberg (Perdekraal) and turned left. The route was quite a steep drop and we went into 4x4, but it is hardly necessary. The track was in remarkably good condition The views over the wide plains of the Knersvlakte below were magnificent. It was a lovely route down, narrow but with places to pass a with a number of spots suitable for wild camping, which we thought would be quite safe here. At the bottom there was no definite end or T-junction and we continued in the hope of finding our way. The guide books do not recommend driving it from the bottom, one of the reasons being it is so difficult to find. We eventually got to what looked like the turnoff shown on our rather basic map. This road ran north through what looked like absolute desert, although there were a few patches of sparse flowers. Marianne had to open several farm gates and also a very well maintained gate with the name Gemsbokrivier-Oos on it, but no indication that this route was not open to the public. We found a place for lunch at a dry river bed. The ground was strangely spongy and it was remarkably atmospheric. Marianne's highlight was disturbing a rabbit when she went to explore the shallow dry river bed. The speed at which it ran away was unbelievable! We were well on our way below the Grasberg on what seemed to be the route well marked on our tourist map. After our lunch stop we carried on north for a few more kilometers before coming to what we had been half expecting - a locked gate! There was a sign which indicated that the area on the other side of the gate was very closed to the public. Not even the Eskom technicians were allowed to enter there. It was very strange not to have a warning sign at the first gate. There was no option but to turn around and go back. Marianne had to reopen all the gates she had already opened previously as we retraced our route before coming to another T junction on a much bigger, relatively speaking, road. This was about 4 km west of our previous one and was the start of what was to be a trip highlight, even if we felt totally lost for most of it. It lead us through the heart of the Knersvlakte. There were patches of flowers, deserted buildings, dry river beds and a forlorn graveyard adorned with yellow daisies. We crossed a river bed and a little duiker bolted away as a dazzling speed. The scenery was lovely. We made a stop at a second dry river for afternoon coffee. As we had no idea of how far we had to go to get to the main Loeriesfontein road Marianne decided to run up nearby koppie to see if she could see anything. On top was a neatly packed beacon. She was up and down before I had finished my tea, but she had only seen the road disappearing into the distance with no sign of other roads or structures anywhere. Driving on we came to a most unusual thing - a locked deep freeze with a solar panel. We had no idea what it could be. Was it the farmer's stack of cold beers for when he was in this area? Not too many kilometers further on we did get to Leeukuil farm, and met a very friendly farmer. He explained the route to us, saying that the road we were headed for went to Kliprand, and we would then have to turn right to get onto the road to Loeriesfontein. He also told us about a shorter cut that we did not find. And the deep freeze? It was the container for the batteries for the electric jackal proof fence! Old deep freezers cost nothing and are very secure. It was a short drive from the farm to the big road that was good gravel. Once on the Loeriesfontein road we started looking for a place to camp as it was too late to get to the town. There seemed to be few possibilities until just before sunset when we got to a turnoff that did not have a gate. The gravel road ran between two fences. About 3 km along we got to a widening in the reserve. There was a wind pomp and drinking troughs and a lot of "ancient" dung had built up. It seemed suitable so we turned in and set up camp. We soon had a fire going - there was plenty of wood lying around and were just relaxing when a rather decrepit bakkie (pickup) came creaking down the road. This was Jan, a really friendly local, who was on his way to the main road to meet his boss and some other "baase" who where going to hunt jackals and rooikatte (caracal). He assured us that there was no problem camping there. He went on his way and about twenty minutes later another bakkie arrived from the other direction. It was the farmer with Jan. He had obviously come to check up on us. He assured us that we where quite safe, and that we were on an old Trekpad. Now we could really relax and enjoy our braai and the isolation and the deep silence. The stars were absolutely unbelievable and the milky way stretched from horizon to horizon. Later I saw a "car" coming down the road, but it took a long time to arrive and produces a strange rumbling sound. It was the Sishen to Saldanha train and it seemed to take forever to pass! It is after all the longest train in the world. Then it was time for bed. It had been quite a day.

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